Protecting biodiversity and market differentiation key to sustainability for Pemberton’s Lake Janis Farm

A desire to produce nutrient-rich food using regenerative and biological farming techniques is the core philosophy of Pemberton-based farmers Julia and Dean Ryan of Lake Janis Farm. The Ryans first began looking at regenerative farming methods in 2007 when Dean became aware of a biological stimulant which was showing impressive results. Following this initial success, he delved further into researching the benefits of regenerative farming. “He was besotted,” Julia said. The research paid off with continued improvements in pasture growth and improving soil ecology across the farm, leading the Ryans further down the path of creating a more sustainable and healthy farming system. Before taking the path of regenerative farming methods, the Ryan family had produced potatoes and beef using conventional methods since the property was purchased by Dean’s grandfather in the 1950s. Dean began working the family farm in 1987 alongside his brothers after finishing school, where their main focus was growing potatoes as well as producing Friesian/beef cross-calves. He said it was after spending many years seeing the use of chemicals and fertilisers needed to grow potatoes sending soil conditions backwards that he knew a different approach was needed. “Every year you would tweak the chemicals and fertilisers used in the program and you would see more disease and weeds as we lost more soil carbon,” Dean said. Following the deregulation of the WA Potato Board in 2016, growing potatoes became increasingly unprofitable. Alternative crops were being explored and a trip to New Zealand in 2015 sparked an interest in growing Kiwi fruit. In 2016, the Ryans took the plunge and became pioneers in WA’s gold Kiwi fruit industry. A total of 4ha was planted to root stock with the plan to grow the Gold Dori variety, which had not been tried in Australia at that point. Following the initial root stock plantings, a few years of unsuccessful quarantine experiences delayed grafting the Italian Gold Dori variety. In July 2020 the vines were successfully grafted. “It was frustrating, but as a result we have some very well-developed rootstock,” Julia said. “We had our first harvest in March 2022. Harvest is very weather dependent but once the orchard is mature it means about two weeks of nonstop picking.” Fruit cannot remain on the vine or it will over-ripen, which means harvest is an intensive time of year. But the Ryans hope it will pay off in premiums for their fruit as there are currently only a few other producers of the Gold Dori in Australia. Dean and Julia agreed Kiwi fruit were “extremely difficult and technically challenging, though they have had support from other growers around the world including New Zealand. “We are a bit warmer and dryer here than our closest growers in New Zealand,” Dean said. “Italy, South Africa, Chile, New Zealand and the US are all other growing areas of this variety.” The Ryans also grow avocados, with the orchard planted in 2017 and began an organic in conversion certification process in 2019, which was fully granted in 2022. The foundation of the farm’s approach is protecting soil health with the introduction of multi-species pasture and managing it using regenerative farming methods to increase its carbon sequestration potential and biodiversity. In 2019, the Ryan family farm was subdivided among Dean and his brother, with Dean and Julia moving forward and managing their section of the property separately — and so Lake Janis Farm was born. The change provided the opportunity for Dean and Julia to dive headfirst into what they believed was the right fit to manage their land. A key component was incorporating the use of fermented compost made on-farm by Dean. The phenomenal pasture growth that resulted from the use of this compost combined with cell grazing management proved they were on the right track. Dean said the approach maintained and encouraged biodiversity as well as using a multi-species pasture system that helps speed up soil carbon sequestration and feed soil biology. Rotational grazing is used strategically to maximise pasture growth, with the Ryans using two centre pivots to ensure green pasture is available for grazing year-round. They graze sheep and cattle together which is an important part of encouraging biodiversity in pasture, because cattle prefer grazing different pasture species to sheep. Running the two together ensures an even consumption of the different plant species, reducing the occurrence of weed species finding ideal conditions to spread. Grazing pasture sustainably and maintaining green cover was essential for protecting the microbiology of the soil. Dean said they practised “crash grazing”, an intense form of managed grazing using a large stocking density of animals on a small area for a short period of time. This approach mimics what would occur in a “wild” situation, stimulating ideal pasture growth conditions as plants are given plenty of time to recover in between grazing while livestock are always given access to fresh green grass. During summer, the grazing area is across 13 paddocks which are rotated every two days, resulting in a 26-day rotation. Irrigation is not required in winter and with pasture growth slower, it takes a total of 45 days to complete a whole farm rotation. Initially the Ryans ran Angus cattle before deciding an alternative breed was needed to differentiate their product in the market. “By chance we tried Jersey beef which had exceptional eating quality,” Julia said. “We are always on the lookout for something different and Jerseys fit,” Dean said. Jersey steers were introduced in 2020 and have been a great success, with their branded beef Lake Janis Grassfed a finalist in the 2024 Harvey Norman Delicious Awards WA Paddock category. “While Jersey steers take a much longer period to grow out fully under a grass-fed system (three-to-four years), this time spent fully maturing adds to the marbling and flavour of their meat,” Julia said. Dean said he purchased Jersey steers from regular clients within WA’s dairy industry and also used a local stock agent. Once cattle reach an average of 330kg dressed weight they are processed via Southern Brook Abattoir’s custom kill service. The Ryans’ Lake Janis Grassfed branded Jersey beef is sold through butchers predominantly, and at select IGA stores and a growing number of food service outlets. It is also popular among private customers, who can buy a half carcase to freeze. The property runs an average of 350 to 400 head of Jersey steers, year-round, and has the potential to expand production as market demand increases thanks to the property’s crash grazing system. The Ryans also run UltraWhite sheep for their ease of management and low melting point fat. A total of 400 ewes are run with an average of 1000 lambs produced a year, with opportunistic buying of feed lambs also occurring. Having not had previous experience with sheep, the Ryans found the UltraWhite breed easy to deal with and much easier on fencing than other shedding breeds such as Dorpers. Currently, lambs are processed at the Dardanup Butchering Company, however the Ryans will be looking for other custom-kill processing opportunities next year when this service ends. Being able to market all their produce to the end consumer is an important and rewarding part of the Ryans’ business, with Julia being the brains behind their marketing strategy. Julia said having previously worked in sales and marketing in Sydney — before travelling to Pemberton, where she met Dean in 1997 — had helped tackle the important part of their business. To date, the main focus has been developing a strong logo and branding, direct selling to butchers, stores and chefs, as well as consistent social media promotion. Dean said in comparison to selling direct to wholesalers, the benefit of dealing directly with customers was the important feedback received. Going forward, the Ryans’ focus would be to educate consumers about the importance of prioritising nutrient-dense food over cosmetic appearance, which is promoted heavily in the conventional market. Lake Janis Farm will also focus on helping consumers understand the importance of soil health and its direct relationship with healthy food. Julia plans to attend a training course to help upskill her knowledge in social media and digital marketing, which she hopes will lead to more consistent demand for their produce. Lake Janis Farm Size: 387ha Where: Pemberton Who: Julia, Dean and Beau Ryan What: Organic avocados, Gold Dori Kiwi fruit, grass-fed Jersey beef and UltraWhite lamb