Paul Edwards: Island Brook Estate Wines is a promising new addition to the Margaret River wine region

You may not be familiar with the name Island Brook Estate wines, but you will most likely know the cellar door with the old red truck out the front, in Metricup, as you head south down Bussell Highway. For more than a decade, wines had not been produced under the Island Brook label, until 2023 when Jill and Paul O’Callaghan took over the established vineyards and property. They’re off to a flying start with a couple of gold medals under their belt, from respected local wines shows, for their 2024 whites. The well-established vines on the estate, mostly around 40 years of age, have played a significant part in their early success, and while production is tiny right now, they could well be one to watch for the future. Island Brook 2024 Verdelho Semillon Chardonnay, Margaret River, $32 “It’ll never work!” they said and yet what a wonderful surprise from this unusual mix of grape buddies, rarely seen together. Clever blending, and presumably some astute picking decisions, have contrived to produce this delicious, pulpy and fleshy textured white wine, bursting with yellow peach, pawpaw, honeysuckle and dash of marzipan. It’s a little viscous and a little creamy, yet only minimal oak was used, so this is all about each of the three varieties expressing their rich fruit and retaining fresh, bright flavours. 92/100 Island Brook 2024 Semillon Sauvignon Blanc, Margaret River, $32 A richly scented example of a classic white that leans into the OG styling of Margaret River SSBs, where the semillon variety makes the greater contribution to style. At 75 per cent of the blend this brings a heady fragrance of lush green forest aromas — think ferns and moss, with lemon curd, kiwi fruit and some candle wax layered on top. The sauvignon component brings freshness and zest and the overall impression is a well-balanced, well-crafted glass of white. 92/100 Island Brook 2023 Merlot, Margaret River, $38 A lush, velvety “drink now” style of merlot packed with plum and black cherry. Flavours show good fruit intensity, a gentle push of tannins and a twist of bitter dark chocolate. The overall impression is that of roundness and generosity. A well-made wine to pour with confidence, that the vast majority of red wine drinkers will glug with ease. 89/100