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Kimberley journey ends at last

Gareth McKnightBroome Advertiser
Gordon Byers, who arrived in Broome 44 years ago in a ute, will be saying goodbye to the town later this month.
Camera IconGordon Byers, who arrived in Broome 44 years ago in a ute, will be saying goodbye to the town later this month. Credit: Broome Advertiser

After 44 years living in Broome, Gordon Byers has quite a few stories to tell, but his Kimberley journey comes to an end this month.

During his time in North West Australia, Mr Byers has worked as a plumber, pearl diver, lugger skipper and chef, and built the first house in prestigious Demco Drive back in the 1980s.

It all started when Mr Byers finished his plumbing apprenticeship in Melbourne, before packing up a ute and travelling to Western Australia on a whim.

"Back then WA was like the other side of the world," he said.

"I had no intentions of heading to Broome, but remember arriving on a Sunday and there was no one about, until the pub opened at 4.30pm and everyone came out of the woodwork."

Mr Byers recollects paying $3.50 a night for a room at the Roebuck Bay Hotel.

He almost immediately became captivated by the people of the town.

After picking up plumbing work for a local builder, the tradesman soon met crew members of the John Louis lugger, which had steamed down from Thursday Island.

Mr Byers was offered a job as a diver on the pearling vessel, which is now in the Sydney Maritime Museum.

It was a bid to introduce Australians to an industry dominated by the Japanese and Malays.

Compared to the health and safety focus and technology available in today's pearling industry, Mr Byers recalls testing conditions on the water.

"We had no navigation equipment, we used to travel by looking at the stars at night," he said.

"There were plenty of times we ran aground.

"In the mornings we had to start the ship's motor manually, while it took four or five of us to pull up the anchor."

Mr Byers also remembers using a lead line to test the depth of the water, and determine whether there might be wild pearl shell beneath the boat.

Although he did not adorn the signature pearling helmets seen in museums today, he does remember wet suits that were very uncomfortable to wear.

"We used to call the suits 'blue heelers', as after you wore them you looked like you had been attacked by one," he said.

"Before we got neoprene rubber suits from Asia, our suits would leave us with raw skin on your arms and around your joints."

The living quarters were confined and the bunks wet, while luggers were always susceptible to "resident rats".

"I remember we brought a big Queensland pumpkin on board, and after a few days I went to get it," he reminisces.

"However, I was shocked to find a small hole in the back of it, and the insides totally hollowed out by a rat."

Mr Byers, who spoke about Streeter's Jetty as a busy and thriving maritime hub, came across plenty of pearls in his time.

He even got into a strange habit as a result.

"We used to swallow small pearls; it was a Malay tradition that is believed to ward off sickness," he said.

After 10 years as a diver, Mr Byers moved company and went on to be a skipper, and later a chef at the Cone Bay pearl farm.

When his time out on the water came to an end the culinary experience served him well.

He bought Shiba Lane restaurant, which used to be based on Napier Terrace.

He remembers growing plenty of chillies in his backyard to ensure the food on the menu suited Broome customers.

However, after more than four decades of living and working in Broome, Mr Byers and wife Lucy are heading off to Cowaramup in the South West for a change and a new challenge.

The cooler climes are an appeal, but Mr Byers also has an idea for a potential tourism business.

He has four children - three daughters called Rachel, Belinda and Roisin, and a son named Chris who is a chip off the old block and is now a qualified chef.

One of the things Mr Byers will miss most about Broome will be his home of 16 years in Demco Drive. He recollects when Demco Meatworks was still operational back in the 1980s. When the business closed, prime land overlooking Roebuck Bay became available.

Mr Byers bought a block of land and built the first home in what is arguably now Broome's most prestigious street.

With his culinary persuasion, he was sure to design the kitchen to allow scenic views while he cooked up a storm.

The two-storey beauty has spectacular views over the waters he once used to work in, but the keys are being handed over to new lucky owners.

Mr Byers admits that the move will be quite the sea change for him, and that he will leave a lot of friends behind in Broome.

"It will be sad to leave after such a long time here," he said.

"I have so many great memories of Broome."

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